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Case Study

Ludhiana Knitwear Manufacturer Achieves OEKO-TEX 100 and Becomes H&M Preferred Supplier

Challenge

A Ludhiana-based knitwear manufacturer (sweaters, cardigans, polo shirts) had approached H&M India sourcing office multiple times but was rejected at the supplier qualification stage due to absence of OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certification. H&M required OEKO-TEX 100 as a non-negotiable baseline for all its knitwear suppliers. The manufacturer used conventional acrylic and wool blends with chemical finishing agents that had not been tested against OEKO-TEX limits.

Solution

AJG coordinated an OEKO-TEX certification programme. SGS India was engaged as the OEKO-TEX testing institute. Product samples from 8 yarn types and 4 chemical finishing processes were submitted for testing. Three chemical finishing agents failed OEKO-TEX limits for formaldehyde — alternative OEKO-TEX approved finishing agents were identified and sourced. Re-testing confirmed compliance. OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certificate for knitwear products obtained.

Outcome

OEKO-TEX 100 certification obtained at month 5. H&M India sourcing office approved the manufacturer as a preferred supplier at month 7. First H&M order: 45,000 units valued at INR 1.8 crore. Annual H&M order volume reached INR 12 crore by year 2. The OEKO-TEX certification also opened doors to two additional EU buyers (a Dutch sportswear brand and a German department store chain).

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